Almost fifty outdoor markets spread art and gastronomy through Curitiba. Looking for a touristc place or not, the markets can be a great idea for the summer.
The Curitiba’s fairs composes one of the multiple cultural scenes of this city. From Tuesday to Sunday, there is almost fifty fairs that happens in several neighborhoods in Curitiba. Among the most famous markets are Largo da Ordem’s, Champagnat’s and Batel’s.
Nostalgia and artistics expressions
The Largo da Ordem’s fair is a multicultural space that includes, mostly, food and craftwork stands. It works from 9 am to 2 pm on Sundays. The historic center is a main factor that brings a lot of tourists and curitibanos who want to enjoy the weekend.
The fair has grown a lot in the last decades and today, every Sunday, receives an average of 15 000 people.
Sonia Farias, a 65 year old retired teacher, has been on the Largo da Ordem’s market for seven years. She works with weaving crafts and woman’s clothing. “As a retired, I felt that I still had energy to keep working. It is something that I love to do. The fair is a place where we can meet and exchange ideas and knowledge with people from different cultures, because it is frequented by tourists from around the world.Besides that, I made many friends there”.
Handcraft X Industrial
Largo da Ordem’s fair is the most recommended market in Curitiba, but Cátia Farias says it is losing its credibility. The purpose of the fair is to only contain craftwork. Some stands sell industrial products, which lowers the real craftsmanship”. The Municipal Tourism Institute, responsible for the markets in Curitiba, ensures that some steps are being taken to verify if what is being sold in Largo da Ordem is really craftwork. One of the providences is to go to the houses and studios of the merchants to verify the origin of the products.
To guarantee a place in Largo da Ordem’s fair is necessary to fill a protocol, where the person writes a letter presenting her interest in participating in the fair. Besides having to show some pictures of the products that will be sold. Another important point is to introduce differentiated products, so the chances of getting a spot are higher. While waiting on the line, the person needs to work on any other neighborhood’s fair that does not occurs on Sundays. Sonia Farias worked on Cajuru’s Fair on Saturdays until she got a place in Largo da Ordem’s market.
Street food from all over the world
But not only of big markets lives Curitiba. There are a lot of neighborhood fairs, mostly visited by people who live around it. One of these little markets it’s “Água Verde’s”, located at Prof. Brasílio Ovídio da Costa Street only and that happens every Thursday. It starts at evening and goes until 10 p.m. Unlike Largo da Ordem Fair, Água Verde’s only offers food. From the traditional “pastel“ to dishes from Bahia, Portugal and Ukraine, besides the crepes and sandwiches cooked to order. It counts also with cooks, cheese and fruits stands.
At Água Verde’s Market, we can see families, teenagers and old people, enjoying what has become a neighborhood tradition. Mariana Corradi, 21, lives around it and goes to the market since she was a kid. “I always came to the market with my parents and today it became a gathering place to a lot of friends. When I come here, I always meet someone. Besides the delicious food, it’s a cheap and cool place to meet the ones we like.”
Some years ago, Água Verde’s market struggled with some teenagers that chose a square in front of the market to drink and use drugs. At that time some families who often went to the market, stopped. Ronaldo, a big fan of the market told us: “A couple years ago, I stopped coming here with my children because it was becoming a little dangerous, I was afraid something bad happened. But now, every Thursday some cops stands right there in the square and its calm again.”
The people who work at the market are there for a lot of years and because of that, know their clients very well. According to Wagner, who works at the pastel stand, the atmosphere at the market is very fun and different from any other job.
Another fair style that is winning Curitiba, are the gastronomic markets. The most famous is Alto Juvevê Gastronomic Market, a “chic” market that happens each trimester at Brigadeiro Mário Eppinghauss Square between Almirante Tamandaré and José de Alencar Streets.
The market counts with 25 stands of all kinds of food: Arabian, Portuguese specialties, sandwiches, pastas, brazilin options, handcraft beer, drinks and some others. Most of the stands are from Curitiba’s famous restaurants that adapt your menus to the event. Besides the stands with guaranteed presence, the fair also brings some chef with an exotic recipe. The last edition offered duck “coxinha” of Chef Carlos Bertolazzi, which was a huge success in New York. The price of the dishes goes from R$ 5 to R$ 20 and the market works from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., on pre-determinate Saturdays and Sundays.
Because it happens in a great neighborhood of Curitiba and because it’s a little overpriced, the public of this fair has a better life condition. As you can see in other markets, families and young people goes to the Alto Juvevê, but unlike other fairs, at this one, the public isn’t very mixed.
Day time, night time, gastronomic, craft shows. Curitiba has fairs and markets for all tastes and publics. Everything suggests that these democratic spaces have all to grow, spreading art and smells through the city.
By Mariana Maranha and Duane Kürten